Colour Me Neutral ETA: illustrated

On my recent recap, LisaP wondered if her feeling that her closet lacks cohesion might be a result of buying in too many different colours. 

I started a reply on that thread but then decided it might get too involved, so decided to begin a new thread instead. 

First off, I think there are many ways to achieve cohesion in one's wardrobe -- if that is a goal. (It isn't, for everyone!) But deciding on which colours -- or rather -- which neutrals will form the spine of your closet — might be the easiest and fastest way. It is also likely to save one money, over time. 

When I started on YLF I literally had nothing to wear that fit me. My closet, such as it was, was a mish-mash of hand-me-downs and thrift store finds. Nothing worked together and I had no defined style. 

As I was flailing around, trying to come up with a style identity, some wise forum member advised me to figure out my core neutrals and colours before starting to make significant purchases. For me, it was really good advice. 

I think the idea possibly came from another blog. I'm not sure. Others here might recall. 

In any case, I started with the neutrals and narrowed things down to navy or ink for the dark neutral (because while black was prevalent and looks okay on me I prefer myself in blue and wear a lot of denim), white for the light neutral, and (at the time) taupe for a medium neutral. As my hair went grey, grey became my medium neutral. (I also wear some charcoal as a secondary dark neutral.) 

These neutrals echo my own colouring -- blue eyes, cool toned skin, silver grey hair (now) with bits of white showing at the front. So right away, if I buy essential items and/or bags/ footwear in those colours, I have closet cohesion and an element of harmony to my look, whatever else I do. 

To recap: if harmony  is a goal, picking your neutrals in tones that work with your own self will help you achieve that. 

It will also give your closet cohesion. 

My colour palette has tended towards those colours that have been lifetime favourites -- reds, berries, fuchsia, bright blues, some purples or lilacs. They work with my neutrals and keep me focused. But, as you can see from this year, it is also possible for me to add new-to-me colours -- and not at all a bad thing. 

I tend to mix brights with a neutral or wear all neutrals with one bright, or (more recently) monochrome brights (chiefly red). But that is not the only way to go. Brooklyn, for instance, doesn't wear brights except for some white. She wears many colours -- some of them truly bespoke! Blended to perfection! And sometimes nary a neutral among them, unless you count burgundy (which I do!) or even teal as neutral. But notice her whiskey coloured sandals and brown boots, for example, and her gold, copper, bronze or brass jewellery -- these tones echo her dark  honey coloured hair and create the glue to hold it all together. 

To take another example, Angie's wardrobe is far more colour rich than mine and brighter than Brooklyn's and she will wear different brights together. 

But she still builds on core neutrals and there are still neutrals she does not wear. She doesn't wear black and rarely rarely rarely wears grey. Neutrals are navy and ink (dark), white and cream (light) and lately, her "medium" neutral might be whiskey or toffee tones. She also wears some browns -- but more as a "colour."   Red can serve aa a neutral for her, too, including burgundy.

Anyway -- point is, there are different ways to approach all of this, but for me wardrobe cohesion starts with deciding on one's neutrals. If cohesion is a goal, it's useful to identify the key light and dark neutrals at minimum. You can do what you like with the complementary pieces -- go crazy!

Okay, lecture for the day over! With my apologies for boring anyone who has read this far! :) Clearly I need to get back to the classroom, LOL.  :0 

But if you have read this far, I'd love to hear your own thoughts on this subject! 

ETA: my collection of neutral for me items (and yes, some are patterned and include some colour, but in that case the pattern is either in 2 or 3 of my neutrals, or the neutral background dominates. 

And my coloured items. .  And yes, there are some blues in there -- these are blues primarily worn for their brighter or lighter colour, and/or even if the navy background dominates, the colours pop and that is the main attraction of the article for me. 

This post is also published in the youlookfab forum. You can read and reply to it in either place. All replies will appear in both places.

47 Comments

  • Suz replied 1 week ago

    Oh, I just thought of something else -- thinking first in terms of colour can be a shopping blessing. Your eyes just skim over anything not in your chosen palette. Makes life simpler. 

    It can also be a kind of fashion curse. How many times have I bought knits or other items for the colour -- only to realize they were in the same stupid style that bores the heck out of me?  This is a special curse for classic dressers, I suspect, and also for those of us who are very colour sensitive. But I know I am not alone here! I am learning, though. If the cut isn't right, the colour is irrelevant. Buy a scarf of a bag in the beloved colour and forget that t-shirt or top in the cut that does not flatter! 

  • Star (Lise) replied 1 week ago

    Excellent advice and not in the least bit boring.  I too am trying to do this.  This is my first season it is actually working.  Gosh getting dressed cohesively has never been this easy.

  • Irina replied 1 week ago

    Excellent observations, Suz. 

    I think colors more than anything reflect our personality. Some might explain their choices by identifying some colors as “flattering “. I personally don’t believe in it. We wear what we love and feel comfortable in, ideas of flattering colors or silhouette seem rather outdated to me. 
    I like my core neutrals in navy, ink, black. My bright is white/cream. My extra neutrals are green/olive, taupe, grey. My none neutral is muted teal. I add other colors once in a white for fun but my core remains the same. I feel that it give me peace, comfort and order that I need. 

  • Dee replied 1 week ago

    Similar to you SUZ, I used to buy every colour of the rainbow with no real rhyme or reason. I thought it would lead to plenty of variety and options. I also bought all kinds of clothes simply because I really liked them and thought somehow my wardrobe could work doing this. I had a closet full of clothes but no understanding of why I couldn't get this wardrobe to work properly together. I mostly had just one-off outfits.

    When I had my colours done way back in the 1980s, it was an eye opener and the basis for helping me build a functional wardrobe. Sorting my basic neutrals was a key starting point. I definitely crave cohesion, its now one of my style descriptors. Getting my core neutrals sorted and then adding a few extra colours has provided me with a wonderful mix and match wardrobe that's both functional and enjoyable to wear.

  • SarahD8 replied 1 week ago

    This is very interesting food for thought!

    I am aware that there are some neutrals I tend to wear a lot of (black especially in cool seasons, navy especially in warm seasons, various cool grays, white -- but this latter mostly in tops). And some I wear hardly at all (taupes, browns -- except for my cognac footwear). 

    But I don't really think of my closet as being built around "my" neutrals.

    I wonder if this is related to the fact that I don't have a very "essentials"-heavy wardrobe? So neutrals are less conceptually important?

    Maybe to generalize, I think that wardrobe cohesion has to come from some balance of inclusion and exclusion, some balance of saying yes and saying no. 

    So your color palette could be very dialed in, like Runcarla's or Helena's. Or it could be very broad but specific, like Brooklyn's -- she wears all colors of the rainbow but very particular versions of those colors. I think I am more in the Brooklyn camp there. But there are multiple approaches that can work.

  • karen23 replied 1 week ago

    I like the idea of figuring out what neutrals to work with, early on.  I do not have an easy time shopping.  Fashion-wise I'm an awkward size (at the big end of misses).
    I try to get an idea of what colors are actually "in", that season.  Blue denim and dark neutrals are easy, light neutrals are more of a challenge (though I like them in warm weather.)  I end up wearing a lot of black, simply because it's a lot easier to coordinate black across brands or size ranges than it is to coordinate navy or brown, and I can usually get black shoes.
    This year I was lucky to find an Eddie Bauer black raincoat.  An actual, functional, warm-weather raincoat!  I got some jeans and chinos that are OK.  There's a fair amount of black in my current wardrobe, there are a number of things missing.  I have a lot of accent colors. Summer dresses don't have to go with much - but I still don't have many dresses that fit (that's a project for 2026.)

  • Jenni NZ replied 1 week ago

    Interesting! I don’t think about my neutrals at all really. I know I wear a reasonable amount of black (against advice for my Clear Spring palette) because I find it easy and sometimes soothing in fact. I like my 2 summer black tops a lot since they have skin to balance them.
    As you know I own no blue denim currently although I have done in the past. Grey is another neutral which is good with my hair though my favourites in grey are prints. And in 2025 I have added a bit of cognac as “my” brown, which I am enjoying.
    I don’t worry about what colours are “in”, just tend to pick up some favourite colours like red and cobalt if they are around.

  • LJP replied 1 week ago

    Suz, this is a beautifully written piece - and I can't help but see the academic in you here.  

    I relate to Sarah's comment about how it might not resonate with those of us who aren't essentials-heavy dressers.  I don't have nor want classic basics that many consider the backbone of their wardrobe.  I do recognize that I have too many unconnected colours in my closet - although it's not a crazy circus of colour. It's more a collection of too many "core" neutrals and the odd random colour that just does not belong.  Like the cool pinky/purpley french terry sweatshirt I had on yesterday.  I don't even like that colour yet it caught my attention last spring after a long cold winter and somehow landed at the cash desk .  Or the pale blue waffle knit oversized Roots t-shirt I thought would be the perfect bit of colour to wear with my , here-we-go-again, core neutral pants.  I have never worn it .  I'm all over the place, and it shows.

     I would have to decide how important this is to me and if I want to resolve it.

  • JAileen replied 1 week ago

    When I came to YLF I needed help, having just gone grey and feeling very lost.  I had never worn black, but lots of tans and browns instead.  They didn’t seem that great anymore with my hair.  I started wearing more blue, and added grey which I had never worn.  I remember going on a trip and everything I packed was grey or dark blue.  It was a revelation, how easy it was to get dressed!  For several years I wore mostly grey.  It was funny how people in the real world felt free to comment on my clothes.  Lots of people don’t like grey, apparently.  

  • cat2 replied 1 week ago

    I tried looking up capsule wardrobes when I was trying to figure out how to add to my wardrobe thoughtfully. But I found the suggestions really grim. All neutrals, very little silhouette variation, etc. That’s what I think of as a cohesive wardrobe. If that’s what we are talking about, then the last thing I want is a cohesive wardrobe.

  • SarahD8 replied 1 week ago

    Lisa I wonder if the solution for you is actually to define not your neutrals but your accent colors? And then build complements of those accent colors in a way that reflects how you like to use them in outfits. (E.g., if you know you always like to keep your bottom half neutral then you don’t need to source colored pants. But if you really like to match your shoes and top then maybe you need a sweater and a pair of loafers in your accent color of choice. These are just examples but you get my drift.)

  • Suz replied 1 week ago

    Jaileen, that is so funny! I think some people don't like to see women with grey hair, especially if they are wearing grey as well. They find this visible acknowledgement of age a bit threatening, maybe? I'm not sure.

    Grey can be a depressing colour! So while I like wearing grey and think on balance it works for me, I also have to guard against wearing too much of it, especially in winter -- because if I do, my mood goes in the tank.  I do not own a grey coat -- for that very reason. And while it can flatter those with grey hair, n the wrong tone or without the right complements, it can also wash us out, make us invisible. So, it's complicated! 

    Lisa, Sarah -- on the one hand, I can see this advice might not resonate for those who don't consider themselves classic dressers. On the other hand, not really -- because even if you aren't a classic dresser, you need certain elements to make outfits. You need bottoms. And you need tops. (Or maybe dresses or jumpsuits). You need coats or jackets (outerwear, at any rate)  and  you need footwear and bags. The shapes of all these things might be classic or trendy or boho or avant garde. Doesn't matter. If you choose a core set of neutrals to buy at least a few of those items in, you have instant cohesion. If those neutrals also echo your own personal colouring, you have some harmony. 

    My core essentials are not all classics, by any means. For example -- balloon jeans. Super wide leg trousers. Jorts. I guess those don't conform absolutely with Angie's definition of essentials, so maybe I am cheating a bit here or mixing up my terminology. Sorry! :) 

    Or maybe I'm not so off the mark. Wide leg trousers are modern classics, after all. That word "modern" is key. The pants that were essentials 5 years ago are no longer essentials for me. I don't even wear that style any more. Ditto for the shapes of jackets and tops....they all evolve and change. But whatever the silhouettes, my goal is to own at least one modern, well-fitting, and comfortable top and bottom in a light and a dark neutral each season. (I don't always manage this.) 

    I'll grant you, picking neutrals isn't the only way to achieve cohesion, though. Just one way. Brooklyn's dominant method might be with shapes/ silhouettes and mixing her special blend colours. So that can certainly work, and work brilliantly! 

    Lisa, I thought for you one barrier might be the whole black issue. Black used to be a fallback neutral for you and for good reason. But then your work uniform intervened. And black is less appealing for your outside clothing, for obvious reasons. So it puts you in a bind. 

    Jenni -- I think you are one who gets your cohesion from your love of embellishment and ornament. This is consistent across your wardrobe --you seek out special little details on each item and prefer items to have that element (or pattern). So there is yet another way to establish cohesion. 

    Karen, I get this! Black is readily available at retail in all sizes as no other neutral ever is...and if it looks good on you and you like wearing it, it definteily provides cohesion! You are right, too -- summer dresses can be a place to play....

    Sarah, I do think you are correct about cohesion coming from some balance of yes and no, some principle of inclusion or exclusion -- but it does not have to be colour (or neutrals, as it is for me). That is just one way. 

    Dee, your wardrobe is indeed very cohesive and I can see how you strive for that in your outfits. 

    Irina so true about colour reflecting personality. Our emotional responses to colour are so individual. 

    Star -- interested to hear more about your experiences as you go on! 

  • SarahD8 replied 1 week ago

    Haha I feel like we are on the edge of triggering the forum's annual in-the-weeds philosophical debate about what essentials are. It's almost time after all!

  • Angie replied 1 week ago

    Oh, they do, Suz! You are bang on the money and not mixing things up. Those trendy items you described can be wardrobe essentials! For example, my trendy blue and white jeans are essentials. So are your jorts! Essentials needn't be modern classic. Not at all! But they can't be bright colours. 

    EVERY wardrobe has essentials. Some wardrobes are more essential-rich than others. You might not think you have essentials - but you do! You simply aren't identifying them - are unaware -  and rather work with them instinctively and intuitively. I do not believe in prescribed lists of essentials and neutrals. They differ greatly between people. They are PERSONAL - which is my point! 

    EVERY wardrobe has a core set of neutrals. And some wardrobes are completely neutral! Also, what is neutral to one person, is a colour to others. (Just to throw in another variable!) This differs greatly from person to person. Again it is personal. 

    You might find it easier to build a wardrobe from your core set of neutrals, and/OR your core set of essentials. I see BOTH happening on this forum. Lots of essentials emerge organically in people's styles over time. So does the palette of neutrals.

    You described yours, Brooklyn's, and my use of neutrals perfectly! Impressive!! I'll add that BLUE DENIM is a strong neutral for my style. It has an excellent neutralizing effect on my clothes (especially dressier pieces).. And you're bang on the money with newer tones of toffee adding that next level of neutral to my look. Plus I think of bright red as more of a neutral than chocolate brown! (As you correctly mentioned). 

    SO WELL WRITTEN, Suz!!! Thank you for your academic prose!!! :)

  • Suz replied 1 week ago

    cat2 -- I'm definitely not talking about the kind of wardrobe you describe -- which sounds boring to me, too. At least i hope my wardrobe isn't like that. :)  I see variation in silhouette, could be lots of colour, etc. But core neutrals to anchor it. 

    Sarah, looks like you are right!! :) 

    Angie, thanks for weighing in. Good to get your perspective and get us well and truly started on what Sarah called the annual heated discussion about essentials! :) 

    I defnitely consider myself to have an essentials-heavy closet and a fairly neutrals heavy closet, too -- because like you, I consider denim a neutral for me. (Dark washes are sort of navy, after all). Your closet is more weighted to colour but some of the colours are neutral for you (like red). Red may be on its way to that status in my own closet, come to think of it....and I have certainly added to my colour component this winter, which is nice. Actually...I should do a count of items and see how the balance comes out -- neutrals vs. colours. Hmmmm....

  • Helena replied 1 week ago

    Love this Suz ... Very well broken down. For my part, even as a neutrals devotee, I have found it useful to define *which* neutrals I want to use and which are not for me (with exceptions allowed of course). For some this might be restrictive but for me parameters are freeing, because I don't have to keep answering the same questions, which gives me more space and confidence to be curious about other aspects of my style.

  • Suz replied 1 week ago

    ETA: my collection of neutral for me items (and yes, some are patterned and include some colour, but in that case the pattern is either in 2 or 3 of my neutrals, or the neutral background dominates.

    And my coloured items. . And yes, there are some blues in there -- these are blues primarily worn for their brighter or lighter colour, and/or even if the navy background dominates, the colours pop and that is the main attraction of the article for me.

    For me, this is instructive in another way. I have almost twice as many neutrals as colours. I believe a person could have a terrifice wardrobe using the opposite proportions. But in that case, I'm betting that at least one of their colours would function as a neutral...OR they would need a much larger wardrobe than mine. 

    So preferred (or actual) wardrobe size is also relevant to this discussion -- along with questions like do you even want cohesion (cat2 says no) or do you want harmony with your own personal colouring at all (perfectly possible not to care about that ,either!) 

  • Suz replied 1 week ago

    Helena, exactly! So well expressed. For me, nailing down my preferred neutrals was freeing in just the way you describe. 

  • Brooklyn replied 1 week ago

    Thanks Suz for this very informative post and for the nice comments.

    I have some thoughts about it.

    I think before choosing your neutrals (I think it might have been Aida who gave you that advice), it can be helpful to identify how much contrast you like in your palette. I think there are 2 types of contrast. Contrast in colour (colours on the opposite side of the colour wheel are higher in contrast than close colours). And there is contrast in value (dark versus light colours).

    I think it’s a little easier to add new colours if you enjoy contrast, especially in value. You can always add white to a dark colour. Or black, dark brown or dark blue to a light colour.

    I like a blended, low contrast palette that leans dark. I prefer both types of contrast to be low, except in spring/summer, when I do enjoy a bit more contrast, especially in value.

    So white is not a particularly useful neutral for me in winter. My winter neutrals would be black, dark brown and burgundy. Maybe olive. Also denim blue (dark denim). What I try to do when adding new colours is to achieve some slight variation on the (neutral to me) colours that I already have. Lately I have been adding deep wine and raisin (purplish brown) colours. These are a nice variation on my redder burgundies and dark browns.

    Similarly, I love a teal green. Lately I have been adding more jade green, which is a slightly lighter and brighter version of teal green. It blends well with my blue-green colour family.

    So, when I add a new colour, I ask myself, what colour family does it belong to in my wardrobe? Will it blend in? This is not such an issue if, like Angie, you have a high tolerance for contrast and colour mixing. That was an early lesson I got from YLF and it was a revelation for me.

    You are absolutely right that I use jewellery, footwear and bag to pull things together. Most of my shoes and bags are neutrals (black, brown, burgundy, gold). I also frequently use jewellery to repeat a colour in my outfit. I also sneakily use jewellery to add a little contrast. A column of burgundy with a gold necklace feels good to me. A gold or mustard top with burgundy skirt - maybe not. Even though I like those colours, it could be too much (colour) contrast for me.

  • Jaime replied 1 week ago

    Never boring Suz! I am probably one of those for whom harmony is an after thought at best, but I wouldn't be surprised if there are discernible color patterns in what I actually wear (to be thought about). I want to read all the comments and will do so later and also give this some thought.

  • Suz replied 1 week ago

    Brooklyn, that is a brilliant addition/ refinement/ edit to what I have written. You are so right! You've given us a colour master class! 

    I remember reading about colour and value contrast on Imogen's nlog years ago, and Jaime has also mentioned it as having come from a book she owns or owned....the title of which I am not remembering this moment. 

    I remember thinking a lot about value contrast a few years back. According to the "colours" systems, I am fairly low contrast myself (at most, medium contrast) and quite light -- so technically, I should not want a lot of value contrast in my outfits. Yet -- at least at times -- i do, and I don't think it looks bad on me if I do it carefully. At any rate, it works with my personal energy -- at least at times. So I'll happily wear navy/white in the same outfit, which are high contrast. But -- right in line with what you said about your own seasonal preferences -- I tend to prefer a higher value contrast more often in summer than in winter. 

    Also like you, I don't enjoy high colour contrast on myself very often, and if I do it, it's likely in spring/ summer. Something to do with the light, maybe? 

    Another similarity -- i will use jewellery for contrast. Wear a mostly navy or dark denim outfit with silver earrings, belt, bracelets, for example. 

    "So, when I add a new colour, I ask myself, what colour family does it belong to in my wardrobe? Will it blend in? This is not such an issue if, like Angie, you have a high tolerance for contrast and colour mixing. That was an early lesson I got from YLF and it was a revelation for me."

    That paragraph should be required reading for those who want to emulate the way you handle colour! 

  • Star (Lise) replied 1 week ago

    What a great thread. Catching up with my morning tea. BROOKLYN you are so knowledgeable no wonder your outfits are all top class. Suz thanks for getting this started with your wealth of information and understanding and I love all the neutral items in your wardrobe, and I get why you consider some of those patterned items neutrals. Are those what is referred to as 'false plains'?

  • Suz replied 1 week ago

    Star, some of them are "false plains," yes, and some aren't so much, but they are items that include 2 of my core neutrals and no colours so while they are patterned for sure, they "feel" neutral to me and play that role in my wardrobe, since I am happy to pattern mix. 

  • Star (Lise) replied 1 week ago

    I was going to say that I bet those particular items make for great pattern mixing.

  • Dee replied 1 week ago

    Oh this is wonderful thread on developing the basis for personal style and it seems there could be several starting points.
    As I mentioned earlier in your post, my own personal style revelations began with a colour analysis, however, not all of these colours really appealed to me. I needed to figure out which ones would serve as my foundation and build my colour palette from there.
    I then noticed over time that I felt more like me when I wore a medium level of contrast in my colour combinations. That was also a key element for me to finally click into. I also noticed that it could even be achieved through wearing a more bolder pattern, or even with my accessories.
    After all of that, the biggest challenge for me was sorting out which styles, silhouettes and proportions I felt best in. I experimented with everything from body con, cropped, frilly to boxy and oversized, and finally settled on my current style and proportions but perhaps that's a bit off this topic and could be discussed in another thread.

  • Helena replied 1 week ago

    May I add one other thought I've been having about contrast? I'm not quite sure where it fits but others may be able to help me articulate. Another layer is that even if you prefer high contrast, there are still bold and subtle versions. For example, the black blouse I wore for NYE with the white polkas dots is high contrast in that it's black and white, but not boldly so. Where as if the pattern had been bigger, or if I'd worn it with white pants rather than ink, that would have been a total different effect, even though the contrast is technically the same in a way. As I'm noodling through my 2026 style intentions, this is something I want to play with ... Does it make any sense? :D

  • Helena replied 1 week ago

    Okay and one other thought after looking at your Funds Suz, which is super instructive (it's clear how well your neutrals echo your own colouring and create harmony) ... I've always said for me navy is a colour, even though it's commonly a fashion neutral. I wonder if this is because I actually don't have any blue for it to connect to? My eyes are cool-hazel-greeny-gray and may hair pulls warm. So even though navy is good on my skin, it stands out in a way it perhaps wouldn't on you. I can imagine for you Suz browns might similarly read more colour than neutral, or gray on, say, Brooklyn or LJP? Fascinating! (Quite possibly wrong and I'm happy to be corrected but fascinating nonetheless!)

  • Dee replied 1 week ago

    HELENA -your observations refernce pattern size and colouring makes total sense. Patterns could be its own separate category, lot of nuances in them to navigate through.

  • Star (Lise) replied 1 week ago

    Good observation HELENA. I see what you are saying. After giving this some thought though I am wondering if I, as one who loves contrast, would even consider your Nye outfit an example of contrast. A bit like SUZ's patterns that read as neutrals because they are in the same colours as her neutrals. Maybe your dotty top could pass as a neutral in your wardrobe? Whereas my red and white polka pussybow top that I am wearing in my profile pic definitely is not a neutral in my wardrobe. Maybe in ANGIE'S it would because red is a neutral for her? I think probably not, because my dots are quite big. Yours are not. I think I would classify your blouse in my wardrobe as a neutral.

  • Star (Lise) replied 1 week ago

    HELENA I think your 2nd observation is interesting. I get why you feel navy is a colour for yourself . I wonder why Angie sees red as a neutral for herself.

  • Helena replied 1 week ago

    Star, I obviously can't speak for Angie, but I think the distinction between fashion neutral and 'body harmony' neutral may come into play. A fashion neutral in my understanding is a colour that can be paired liberally with just about any other colour - which red does in Angie's wardrobe and style!

  • LJP replied 1 week ago

    Helena - interesting observations about the colour navy.  You're right: when I wear it , it's not that I don't "like" it, it just doesn't connect to my skin tone, hair colour or personality at all.  Yesterday I wore a navy Lulu cropped scuba hoodie over a white t-shirt and navy OTF Lulu pants - both castoffs from my daughter.  Black boots, black puffer and black purse.   I was deeply conscious of how unusual an outfit this was for me, yet my husband must have told me 3 times that day how good it  looked !  I give up.

    I was laying in bed thinking about this thread last night (tossing and turning from the effects of the Shingles vaccine I had yesterday - UGH) and the concept of contrast , which isn't new but one I keep forgetting about .  I prefer lower contrast looks, especially for fall/winter, and will have to keep that in mind when I am tempted to buy something.  Even though I am rebelling against planning, thinking, experimenting,  organizing and focusing on my wardrobe, I am going to have to do some sort of planning for it to be cost-effective and not wasteful.

  • Suz replied 1 week ago

    Happy New Year! I woke up to all these smart comments. :) 

    Helena, I think you are dead on the money about the relationship of contrast to pattern. I like to wear navy (or more often, dark or medium denim) and white together but I do not wear items with large navy and white patterns. The exceptions to this might be my batik patterned summer dress  and my Zara summer dress-- but in the first, the blues are mostly medium to light, with just a bit of dark and the squares in the pattern are not larger than my eyes. There is also enough delicacy in the second dress's pattern that it does not overwhelm me. A dress with a large print sharp navy/ white would wear me.

    In the leopard print sweater, the pattern is small enough and graduated (there is white, pale blue, darker blue). 

    The blue and white stripe is a shart contrast and quite bold and does threaten to overwhelm me. But I wear it anyway. :)  For me, it works. I can see another person with my exact same colouring saying, nope, too much. 

    Anyway, you may well be right with your thoughts on blue and why it feels to you. like a "colour." Brown has always felt like a colour to me and on me. I love brown and used to wear it surprisingly well-- from chocolate to taupe to oatmeal -- back when my hair was dark blonde. But it never became a primary neutral for me. Similar to black. 

    Then again...Angie has green eyes and while she wears green, green isn't a neutral for her. :). So your neutrals do not *have* to echo your colouring if you don't care about that! 

    I tend to think hair is the more important aspect of colouring to focus on if outfit cohesion is a goal. If you have footwear and or bag or some other element of your outfit  (could be your top, bottom, scarf, coat, etc.) in the colour of your hair, this becomes outfit glue. 

    • Hence: silver and/or grey for me. 
    • Gold and/or cream (and now she's dark blonde, whiskey)  for Angie. 
    • Gold or bronze or brass or light brown for Brooklyn
    • Black for anyone with black hair. (I am so jealous because this is easy to source!) 
    • Red or reddish brown (cordovan?) or burgundy for those with red hair or reddish tones to their hair. 

    Back to your blouse, Helena -- it's almost a false plain. The pattern is very restrained and while the individual neutrals are high contrast to each other, the dots are so small here they almost blend. Also, part of the blouse is sheer so there is the graduated tone of skin showing through. This makes it "softer" and more romantic. Less bold and graphic. 

    Pattern scale is definitely its own subject! I have learned through trial and error that patterns need to harmonize with the size of my features to work for me. I think this may be because I'm on the small side, with low to medium contrast colouring. This is how I sometimes (as with the bold striped knit top) get away with wearing higher contrast than would typically be advised for someone with my colouring. This, and adding a bridge.  If I'm going to wear contrast in high blocks (white blouse, navy pants) I willl usually also add a medium toned element up near my face. Even with that knit top, when the weather allows, I will often layer a shirt under or a scarf over that "ties it together" with a more medium hue or sometimes red (a bright that plays its own music.) 

    Anyway, I steer clear of high contrast large scale bold patterns, much as I like them on others -- because they quickly overwhelm me. Most of this was intuitive and I reverse engineered my reasons. 

  • Suz replied 1 week ago

    Lisa, that makes total sense to me! Maybe contrast level is the missing link for you. Maybe you like lower contrast outfits, mostly darker (like Brooklyn) in which case you would enjoy more blended colours like hers. It makes sense with your love of olive. 

    Helena, I think you're right about "fashion" neutral vs. "personal colour harmony" neutral. We are sort of conflating both kinds, simply because I started the thread and my own "fashion neutrals" happen to be my "personal colour harmony" neutrals -- which does not have to be the case, as Angie proves! (Though note that her fashion neutrals do include some of her personal colour harmony neutrals!) 

    Star, I  mused earlier on the thread that as i acquire more colour, red and burgundy are becoming neutrals for me, too. They work with everything in my closet (with rare exceptions.) But at this point, I still enjoy them as changes from my neutral blue and white palette. They add zing. 

    Dee, you have figured this out so well for yourself. I think medium contrast is best for me, too, technically (our colouring is different but close I think in contrast value, which might explain our love for medium blues!) 

    The title of that book Jaime mentioned years ago (I think) is The Triumph of Individual Style. She goes through colour, pattern, scale, movement, all kinds of stuff in there! 

  • Bonnie replied 1 week ago

    I would love to join one of your lectures in person but this thread is fantastic, too. Thanks for sharing what you have learned, it helps.

  • Carla replied 1 week ago

    A master class Suz, and something to chew on for New Year’s Day.  


    Black and dark blue are the ‘backbone’ of my closet, but I’m considering boosting the cream/off white content since my hair is getting whiter and whiter.  I’ve found caramel hard to source in quantity - though I’ve done better with leopard.  Though leopard isn’t really a neutral I might treat it as such.  (Angie might have something to say about that, though!)

  • Roberta replied 1 week ago

    SUCH an interesting conversation!I have spent so many years focusing on color in my closet that I've paid little attention to the concept of neutrals. There is a great discussion on Reddit about what defines a neutral: https://www.reddit.com/r/femal.....a_neutral/ (They get pretty deep in the weeds here.)

    For example, the idea that a neutral is what makes a different color pop in the outfit, i.e. camel pants and a fuchsia sweater.

    Or, a tone *lacking* color, like beige, tan, gray, black, etc. NOT on the color wheel. This really resonates with me. 

    Or, the hue that in your closet goes with almost everything you own. This might even be a tomato red or a deep navy (anyone we know?).

    And then there is a whole tangential conversation about neutral vs. base colors. The scientific definitions compared to how we actually get dressed!

  • karen23 replied 1 week ago

    I am still trying to figure out what works, now that I'm retired, now that my hair has more white in it.  It was ginger color, now it's ginger with a lot of white and it's growing out in stripes which is sort of strange, but I'll take it.

    I used to avoid having camel or caramel color near my face because the white in my hair used to "pop".  So recently I tried on something camel colored.  I think I just don't like camel color all that much.  There are plenty of other colors I like.  And this morning I was thinking - I don't have to rush this.  (But I do enjoy seeing what other people are coming up with.)

  • Angie replied 1 week ago

    Partied till 2.30am last night. Need more tea to tackle this exploding thread....

  • LJP replied 1 week ago

    2:30 am????? I went to bed at 9:30 !

    LOL! 

  • UmmLila (Lisa) replied 1 week ago

    I would say I’m more driven by mood — shapes, colors and textures — than by cohesion in my wardrobe. So when I get dressed for the day, I choose a particular piece that speaks to me that day, and build around it.

    Even applying this magpie-seeming approach, I’m well aware that navy blue is always going to be one of my best colors, as it plays off the color of my eyes and the pink of my skin perfectly. I know my other good colors, too (e.g., most blues and pinks work for me — as long as they aren’t super-saturated and thus overwhelming; oranges, peaches, beiges and yellows are nearly always draining; and giant high contrast patterns generally get a no, even though I will wear stripes.) 

    What this means for the closet is that I could at this time of year easily pull a random sweater and a random pair of pants out, and it’s pretty likely that I would be able to make them work together, even though they might not convey the exact mood I might otherwise choose.

  • Suz replied 1 week ago

    Lisa, yes -- it sounds like you manage it intuitively and do it very well. Many of your outfits are medium contrast in your preferred colours. Also, you have a fairly large wardrobe, which means you have more freedom in some ways. Still, you have obviously bought well because when most anything in the closet could work with most anything else, that's cohesion! 

    I don't really conciously think about any of this on any given day when I get dressed, either! It's in the back of my head -- it was how I formed the spine of the wardrobe originally, years ago. 

    Angie, LisaP -- I will split the difference -- I managed til midnight! 

    Karen, you might find Carla's posts useful because her hair is changing similarly. It could be that camel does not suit you, though (as it wouldn't suit me, either!) No need to wear it then! Or no need to wear it except for accessories, maybe? 

    Roberta, so true -- the way we talk about neutrals and colours in fashion is not the way they talk about it in art or science! But it helps to know how artists and scientists think about it, too, I mean if you really want to get into the weeds, as you said. Do you have key neutrals, do you think? Which are your favourites? 

    Carla, the addition of more cream and off-white would be great for you, I think. I can see how it might be hard to source caramel but in my view, leopard can be a neutral! :) A fashion neutral, anyway. It sure looks good on you! It works with your dark items and picks up the colour of your hair. 

    Bonnie, thanks for the smile. :) 

  • lyn67 replied 1 week ago

    A great thread about color-learned a lot from comments, too and I recommend this read: https://tibi.com/pages/the-goo.....a-language.

  • Angie replied 1 week ago

    If you've read through this thread carefully and absorbed the content, you're awarded a Masters in Neutrals, Contrast and Pattern Nuances ;) 

    Many thanks to all the astute contributors!!! Shout out to Suz for her iincredible wisdom and observant accuracy :) 

    My 2 cents:

    • Every wardrobe needs neutrals. How you define neutrals is subjective - so there is that! After you've worked through the definitions, you need to CHOOSE at least two neutrals that work with the colour palettes of your wardrobe. I personally suggest that one should be lighter, and one darker. Makes for a more versatile wardrobe. Feel free to choose more. Here are my definitions. Pass on the neutrals that do not work for you. Helena is dead right! 

    https://youlookfab.com/2021/09.....-neutrals/

    https://youlookfab.com/2025/01.....our-style/

    • Your complexion plays a HUGE role in making a neutral look and feel good when you glance in the mirror. It can repeat the colours in your hair, eyes, teeth, and skin, or simply complement them. Blue-eyed people tend to feel good in a version of blue. Suz is one great example. They often pick blue as one of their neutrals - navy or denim. My eyes are green on the inside, and blue on the outside. People often mistake my eyes for blue - yet they're green. And while I feel unhappy in an earthy olive as my neutral, I feel smashing in navy, sour blues, and denim. Maybe because my eyes are blue-adjacent? Not sure. I go with what I feel best in. Carla wants to add toffee and caramel tones to her wardrobe because they're a smashing match with her hair. And yes, Carla! leopard print can be your "personal neutral". Bright red is my "personal neutral" Star, because it's as versatile as a neutral for my style. Hence I have bright red specs! They work with almost anything. I'm adding gold as a personal neutral too. (Jaime recently identified that - thank you!) Gold items pick up the honey blonde strands in my hair, and I like the colour repetition. Suz feels similarly with silver. 
    • There are MANY versions of contrast, as Brooklyn, Suz and Helena brilliantly explain. There are different colours that contrast with each other, and tones of the same colour or adjacent colour that contrast with each other. The contrast that is created can be higher or lower (value). CHOOSE the types of contrast you prefer to wear in patterns and in outfits. Lower contrasts are quieter and less bold. The opposite is true for higher contrasts.

    This is why I suggest:  Your wardrobe items HAVE TO RELATE TO EACH OTHER in the ways that you want them to. Do they create the right level of contrast FOR YOU ? Are they sufficiently neutral, or non-neutral FOR YOU? Are you creating the right amount of tension, or cohesion FOR YOU. 

    That is one important way you create a desired look :)

    Personally, I like wearing high contrast, and clashing colours. I also like wearing colour-adjacent outfits (like orange-pink-red), or all sorts of reds together. Know what you like, and follow your feelings. The penny will begin to drop, and you do these things intuitively, if you aren't already! 

  • Suz replied 1 week ago

    Thank you, Angie -- those links are gold! And yes, you see, I learned here -- dark and light neutral and go from there. And also--evolve the style! I didn't wear many colour adjacent outfits until recently. But I have always loved the look on others so I am dipping my toe in now. Red is basically a neautral for my style, too, since it goes with everything and I love it. But it peps me up like a colour. So it is both -- the way bright blues are more of a colour for me, even if I can wear them with just about anything else. 

  • Angie replied 1 week ago

    Thanks, Suz! You are awfully patient and kind to reply so fully to our thoughts. 

    Welcome to Team Red Is a Personal Neutral! You wear a blue red with the best of them!! Red, as you mention, has the added advantage of pepping us up with its bright integrity. Therapeutic. 

    Red is definitely more of a neutral to me than dark brown - which you astutely mentioned too.  For example, I recently tried on a pair of brown and cream specs (at home with outfits because I ordered them). Shape was excellent. The colour was jarring! As soon as I put on my red pair of specs, I felt I was wearing a neutral ;) 

  • Suz replied 1 week ago

    That makes sense to me, Angie! That is how it would be for me, too. 

    So for you: Red is a fashion neutral, brown is a sometimes useful and enriching colour. Whereas for many, brown would be their neutral. 

    For me, red is also a fashion neutral. (If I wore specs, I'd happily wear red ones -- after all, I used to have fuchsia specs, and red would be more versatile for my style. As it is, I have two pair of sunnies -- one with red frames, one with silver.) Meanwhile, black is most definitely a colour in my closet. Mind you, I don't currently own any black apart from boots. If I were to buy something brown, it would also be a colour. 

    For Carla, leopard can be a fashion neutral. I think red could be a fashion neutral for her, too, but so far she uses it as a colour. (What do you think, Carla, if you read this?) 

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